About those Trimmings

The asparagus ends are already in the garbage. And now my tidy pile of peelings is growing as I scrape away the epidermis on the lower third of the stalks. Thus prepped, they will cook at roughly the same pace as the tender tips and look pretty on the plate.

Even so, looking at the peelings, I feel a vague sense of unease. Maybe I should do something with them? I don’t have a compost pile, but I do keep a couple of freezer bags for vegetable and poultry trimmings that eventually make their way into broth. Asparagus trimmings might give an off taste to broth, though. Hmmm. They follow the ends into the garbage.
    
These were so-so supermarket asparagus, by the way. Tender farmer’s market asparagus wouldn’t have posed this dilemma. As with thin-skinned eggplant or zucchini, I could have skipped the peeling without compromising culinary quality.

I go one better when I find a cauliflower in primo condition--breaking off the thick leaves at the base, blanching them and tossing with olive oil, lemon juice, salt and pepper. It’s a delicious trick I picked up from a cooking teacher whose family came from southern Italy, where nothing is wasted.  

At Teatro del Sole, in Florence, I ate an unfamiliar vegetable that turned out to be fava bean pods. “Most cooks throw them away, but not me,” said chef Fabio Picchi. They were very soft and savory, like green beans simmered with pork fat for half the afternoon.  

Along the same frugal lines, the filleted skeletons of sardines and other small fish are fried to savor as a snack in Japan as well as Italy. And recently a restaurant p.r. person tried to persuade me that that fish jaws are going to be a hot trend.   

I haven’t tried cooking fava pods or fish jaws yet, but these days I find myself taking a second look at scraps and trimmings. Sometimes they’re garbage…and sometimes they’re food.

Featured Recipe: Sautéed Asparagus with Capers



© 2006 Toni Lydecker; all rights reserved for site content, except for recipes and photos credited to others and used with their permission.

Web Design by Bush Prisby

 


Seafood alla Siciliana

Recipes and Stories from a Living Tradition
SEE SAMPLE PAGES!

 



Serves One

Simple Meals to Savor When You're on Your Own
(completely revised second edition)

 

Dried Bean Cuisine

Dried legumes are not only packed with fiber and protein but often offer better flavor and texture than the canned kind, plus the advantage of no added sodium. Here are some pointers from Cesare Casella, director of Italian studies for the French Culinary Institute and a bean lover from way back.

Cooking Adventures in Sicily

Just about every visitor falls victim to Sicily’s seductive ways with food. My passion for this island’s glorious crossroads cuisine, influenced by Arab, Spanish and Greek occupiers, began with first sight of dazzling seafood displays. A friend succumbed to caponata, sampling local takes on the sweet-and-sour eggplant dish wherever he went. Others lose their hearts to a lemon granita, ravioli stuffed with luscious ricotta or the thick savory pizza called sfincione.

Maine Focus

Sam Hayward is chef/partner of Fore Street, an award-winning restaurant in Portland, Maine. Long before the restaurant opened in 1996, Sam had begun to work directly with local farmers, foragers and fishermen. In 2008 he was named the first recipient of the Maine Culinary Award for lifelong contributions to the state’s food community. Sam talks here about Maine’s amazing food resources and what this place means to him.