Dried legumes are not only packed with fiber and protein but often offer better flavor and texture than the canned kind, plus the advantage of no added sodium. Here are some pointers from Cesare Casella, director of Italian studies for the French Culinary Institute and a bean lover from way back.

Choose high-quality legumes. Pass up packages with broken beans or skins, a sign of careless processing, or discoloration indicating age. Artisanal beans cost more than industrially produced ones (typically, $3 to $8 per pound) but are likely to be better quality. Dried artisanal, heirloom and organic beans are available online (e.g., www.chefshop.com), ethnic markets, health food stores and some supermarkets, including Whole Foods and Central Market.

Store dried beans in a cool dark place. They are best used within a year after processing.

Soak 4 to 12 hours, depending on bean size (the smaller, the less time needed). After draining, rinse thoroughly until the water runs clean. Dried beans can be cooked without soaking—they’ll take longer but taste fine.

Add four parts water to one part beans. After bringing to a boil, reduce the heat to a simmer. Let the beans dance in the water…as Cesare puts it, slow dancing, not rock and roll!

Beans and other legumes vary considerably in size, texture and flavor. Some to seek out:

Cannellini (white navy beans) are versatile beans with a delicate flavor. They’re a good choice for pasta e fagioli, and pair well with tomatoes. Substitute: Great Northern beans.

Chickpeas are round, with a firm texture and nutty flavor, and are used widely in Mediterranean and Asian cuisines. Try sautÈing them with bitter greens such as broccoli rabe or kale.

Lentils are mild tasting, with thin skins. The small greenish-brown ones from France or Italy are especially tasty. No need for soaking, and they cook quickly. Simmer lentils with potatoes and seasonings to make a savory stew.

Borlotti (cranberry beans) have an earthy flavor and creamy texture. Seasoned with sage and garlic, they make a great side to steak or pork. Substitute: pinto beans.

Corona beans are distinguished by a meaty taste and slightly mealy texture. Their large size calls for long, slow cooking. Combine with tuna, onions and olive oil for a great main-course salad.

This article was published originally in Cooking Light; modified by the author.